Kat, Kat's mother and brother, Sue and Chris, and I spent
the past weekend in Viñales. Easily one of the most beautiful places I have
visited in Cuba, Viñales is a small town west of Havana in the province of Pinar
del Río. I would have to recommend this town to geology lovers in particular. While
my knowledge of geology is limited, I can tell you that the beautiful mountains
in Viñales are called "Limestone Karsts" and can also be found
throughout Asia. The woman we were
staying with, Mirtha, set us up with one of her friends who took us on a
walking tour of the countryside. He led us through farmers' fields, over and
under barbed wire fences, and all the while we got an excellent view of
mountains and tobacco fields. Due
to the recent rain, our walk quickly became muddy but once your feet are
covered in mud you stop worrying about getting dirty and just enjoy the squishy
sensation.
We toured tobacco fields and learned a little about the
cultivation process. After spending three months growing in the fields, the
tobacco leaves are hung in the drying houses for another three months. It's
obligatory for the farmers to then sell 90% of their crop to the state and the
remaining 10% they cure and roll themselves to sell to the public. To cure the
tobacco each farmer combines the leaves with his own particular mixture of water,
rum, honey, pineapple, guava and other fruits to add flavor. The way they cure
the tobacco diminishes the amount of nicotine in the cigars. The majority of
the nicotine in the plant is actually contained within the stems which are not
used in the cigars but are instead are used as a natural pesticide. One of the most photogenic farmers,
Orestes (who said he was named after Saint Orestes) gave us a quick demonstration of how the cigars
are hand rolled. Orestes and his son offered us
coconuts filled with coconut water, rum and honey, which we drank together in a
small cabin on top of a hill. During our time with Orestes and his son, a storm
rolled in and we were happily trapped there for close to an hour. Some farmers
from nearby fields came round to take shelter, while one rode off on his horse
to get a bottle of rum. He came trotting back shortly and we all shared a
couple more drinks before heading back home along the muddy path.
Here are a couple photos from our walk:
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A tobacco drying house |
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A bull and the approaching storm |
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Tiny tobacco seeds |
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I kind of fell in love with this little guy. |
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Just a little muddy |
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Crawling under barbed wire |
|
Kat and I |
|
Kat, Chris and Sue |
|
Our delicious coconut drinks |
|
Orestes - the most photogenic farmer ever. |
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After the storm |
|
Our walk home. |
We're back in Havana now and since Kat's birthday was
yesterday our Cuban Madre, Lily, has prepared a surprise for dinner! Tomorrow
Sue and Chris are headed to the airport early in the morn, and Kat and I go
back to work. This week my family is visiting so in all likelihood I won't post
again until next week.
Hasta luego!
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